Grape Expectations: Book II

“Bring in the bottled lightning, a clean tumbler, and a corkscrew.” A capital suggestion indeed! Today’s column samples the white wines of Ontario. But first, a little geography. 
The Niagara escarpment in lower Ontario creates a wonderful microclimate for grapes.  Its cliffs and ridges trap the air rising from Lake Ontario, making for cooler days and warmer nights than would otherwise be the case.  The growing season that results is much like the Burgundy region in France. Chardonnay abounds. But lesser-known varietals also prosper—Riesling, Gewürtztraminer, and Sauvignon Blanc, for example.
Two labels can generally be recommended as good combinations of quality, value, and approachability.  Jackson-Triggs makes excellent everyday wines; try their Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.  The Ancient Coast label was explicitly created to market affordable VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) wines, and currently consists of three red and three white bottlings.
For specific vintages, try these:  Inniskillen 1997 Reserve Chardonnay ($13.95), the canonical example of an Ontario Chardonnay.  Jackson-Triggs 1998 Gewürtzraminer ($9.45) is a spicy wine that pairs well with ham, sushi, and Thai cuisine.  And Iniskillen 2000 Pinot Grigio is a refreshing alternative to Chardonnay—crisp and light, it is meant to be enjoyed during its wanton youth.
Tomorrow, the red wines of Ontario. Salut!

John M. Linebarger and Scott M. Pike