
Grape Expectations: Book III

“Fan the sinking flame of hilarity with the wing of friendship; and pass the rosy wine.” Who are we to disagree with Charles Dickens?! Today’s column savors the red wines of Ontario. But first, something straight from the heart. You may have heard about the so-called “French Paradox”—the French eat a diet high in saturated fat but have a low incidence of heart disease. Researchers have speculated that resveratrol, a substance found in red wine, may help explain this conundrum. Ontario wines have particularly high levels of resveratrol, and the local winemongers have jumped at the opportunity to peddle their wares as being good for the heart as well the head (at least until the morning after). Because of its northern latitude the growing season is relatively short in Ontario, which prevents the grapes from fully ripening. As a result, most of the best red wines are blends (or “meritages”) of Bordeaux grape varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. For example, the Jackson-Triggs 1997 Meritage ($10.95) is heavy on the Franc but light on the Merlot, which yields a robust wine with a long finish that takes you upstairs, tucks you in, and tells you a bedtime story. The Inniskillen 1998 Reserve Meritage ($19.95) reverses the proportions. Big and rich and jammy, this is a wine that slaps you in the face and makes you cry for mama. For a zesty fruit bomb, try the Travigne 1999 ($9.95). This medium-bodied blend of Gamay and Zweigelt stands up to hard cheeses, pork, and long keynote addresses. After sampling the red wines Ontario has to offer, you’ll find yourself saying, “Please, sir, may I have some more?” (Assuming you still possess the faculty of speech, of course.)  Tomorrow we end our journey and reward ourselves with dessert. Enjoy!
— John M. Linebarger and Scott M. Pike